Golfers rarely achieve par 72 on this most challenging Atlantic links. It might have something to do with the intoxicating air and breathtaking scenery, but more probably the last six holes are to blame. Greens set high in the hillside on the 14th and 15th holes can be unnerving, particularly after playing the most testing 13th! Take time, however, to look up and marvel at the splendid Twelve Bens etched against the skyline, or Ballyconneely Bay, dusted with pure, white sand. The back nine has been described as "the equal of any in the world".